Building Firm Railings

Q: How can I build a wooden railing that's solid? I'm installing a four-foot high, ready-made railing next to an indoor stairwell near my front door. The section is five feet long, with one end fastened to a wall. The problem comes at the other end because it can only be attached to the floor. The whole thing really wobbles right now. Besides using L-brackets for additional support, do you have another suggestion for making this railing firmer?

A: Your problem is a common one because railings undergo so much stress during normal use. There's tremendous leverage against their mounting surfaces, especially when all you're relying on is attachment to the floor. When wooden railings are installed properly in new homes, the large wooden posts extend down into the underlying floor frame, where they're bolted securely. But nothing like this is practical in retrofit cases like yours. I also don't think metal L-brackets are going to help. The best you can do is remove the railing assembly, and fasten it securely to a base (perhaps a piece of 2x6 hardwood), then bolt this base to the floor. In this way you can secure the railing to the base with glue and lag bolts driven up into the structure from underneath, then bolt the base down to the floor solidly from above. You can hide the bolts under tapered wooden plugs. Another thing to consider is the installation of two sections of railing that forms an L-shaped corner. Even if you don't need the extra leg of railing for safety reasons, having it present will boost the solidity of the whole thing.