Season 1: Project #17 What's the hold up? - Anything I Can Do

Transfer the mark to the top edge of the board

Next, take the panel molding and cut a 45-degree angle on one end. Then place the molding along one side of the 20" oak base and mark the uncut end with a very sharp pencil. Transfer the mark to the top edge. Place it in the mitre-box and cut the second miter angle. Put it in place and check that the length is accurate. Adjust the length as necessary. (If you cut it too short, this means starting over!)

Repeat the panel molding cuts for all four sides of the 20" oak base and three sides of the 3 ½" book-support.

Apply glue

Use your finger to spread the glue evenly to the ends

Clamp the pieces in place to dry

Dry fit all the trim pieces on the 20" base to be certain they fit. Re-cut as necessary for a near-perfect fit. Apply carpenters glue to all the touching surfaces and put them in place. Make any final adjustments before the glue starts to dry.

Clamp the pieces in place and leave overnight to dry.

Repeat the procedure on three sides of the 3 ½" book-support, leaving one long side free.

Finish up by hand sanding

Remove the dust with a tack cloth

After the glue is dry, sand the surface of the base and book-support using a belt sander fitted with a coarse-grit belt. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions if using a belt sander. (You can also do the sanding by hand if you don't have a belt sander.) Always work along the grain. Take down the surface until you've reached the bottom of the deepest dents or blemishes in the wood surface. Continue sanding, using successively finer belts until the surface blemishes are no longer visible.

Do a final hand-sanding with a fine piece of sandpaper, still working in line with the grain. Clean up the trimmed corners as necessary to remove any sharp edges or wayward fibers. Then remove all surface dust with a tack cloth.

Apply a water based Varathane clear coat with a sponge brush on all surfaces. Let it dry. It will raise the grain of the wood, so once it's dry you'll need to use very fine steel wool to smooth the surface.

Measure for the Shaker pegs. Find the proper size drill bit by sliding the end of the peg into the holes in the drill bit case until you find one that it easily slides into. Then hold the drill bit up to the end of the peg and mark the correct drilling depth on the bit with a piece of masking tape.

Mark two rows of holes to be drilled at 5 ½", 7 ½", 12 ½" and 14 ½" from the end of the 20" board (measured from inside the trim). The holes should be centered on the board. The first row is set back 2" from the front of the base. The second row is set back 4" from the front. This will give you eight adjustment holes for the Shaker pegs.

Use oil-based wood filler to fill any remaining open areas along the trim or gaps at the corners. Mix the colors together until you get a shade that is close to the wood color. Rub the filler into the open joints. Gently wipe off with a clean dry rag. Usually, a color that is just lighter than the wood makes the imperfections disappear more readily.

Apply at least one more clear coat. Two or three more coats are even better. Be sure to follow the manufacturers recommendations and let dry thoroughly. Use fine steel wool between coats to be sure you get the smoothest finish possible.