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Materials:
- Copper sheeting
- Ammonia
- Pickling vinegar
- Newspapers
- Copper powder
- Nail polish or shelac
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Tools
- Stylus
- Abrasive scrub pad
- Nail
- Scissors or tin snips
- Knife
- Chisel
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Steps:
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If you're on the hunt for cheap but tasteful décor upgrades,
how about copper switchplate covers? They're fun to make,
and deliver a zing of artfulness to your surroundings.
Copper is unexpectedly delightful to work with. It's really
soft, so you can shape it easily without having to heat it
or wail on it with a huge hammer (as with iron, for example).
Copper was the first metal that humans pounded into tools,
dishes and weapons and it's still the beginner's choice because
it's so cheap and malleable. Plus you can apply finishes (made
from stuff you have around the house) that will add a lively
patina in shades of green, turquoise and blue.
Sheet Happens
Start by buying a bit of copper sheeting, available at
places that stock sheet metals (look in the Yellow Pages under
'steel' and you can usually find a metal supplier who deals
in various metals, including copper). My favourite weight
for copper sheeting is .007 mm. You can cut it with ordinary
scissors and it's really easy to emboss. Once you've tracked
down your copper, the fun begins.
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Treat the copper surface with synthetic steel wool |
The surface looks like this after scrubbing with synthetic steel
wool |
Synthetic steel wool also comes fixed to a mandrel which fits
in a drill |
The finish made by the mandrel looks like this |
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Scratch 'n' Switch
To get a really cool 3-D iridescent finish, rub the copper
surface with an abrasive dishwashing pad. This dulls the surface
slightly, but adds depth and mystery, especially if you make
circular patterns with the pad. (This scuffed surface treatment
is often used on stainless steel surfaces in upscale restaurants,
although they use a much heavier abrasive on the hard steel.
Isn't that just the kind of arcane info that makes your weekend?
Me too.) |
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The Embossible Dream
Trace the outline of a switchplate onto your copper, and cut
it out, adding an extra half-inch hem on all four sides. Then
draw a freehand design on the copper with a pencil, or trace
a design you like and transfer it onto the copper using carbon
paper.
Next, place the piece of copper wrong side up on an inch-thick
pile of old newspapers, the ideal surface for embossing. To
make embossed impressions in the copper you need a stylus,
available at craft stores and art supply places. (Or just
use a dried-out ballpoint pen.)
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Mark the location for the toggle to pass through the cover |
Use an old chisel to cut an X from corner to corner |
Fold the copper around behind the plastic cover |
Use a dull chisel or straight screw driver to help make the
corner folds |
Use a Popsicle stick to press the copper against the switchplate
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Option - Trim the sharp edges with sticky copper tape designed
for use with stained glass |
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Run the tip of the stylus over the lines of your design.
If it binds or balks, don't press so hard. You can always
go over it again. Once you've finished embossing you'll need
to cut out the opening for the light switch toggle. Use an
old knife or chisel to cut X-shaped slices in the opening
from corner to corner, and fold the resulting tabs behind
the opening. Fold the outside hem around behind the switchplate
as well, and use a Popsicle stick to flatten the copper against
the back.
Safety Tip
Prevent cuts from the sharp edge of the copper by covering
it with copper foil tape found in stained glass supply shops.
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Brush shellac or nail polish on to the head of the scresws |
Then dip them in copper powder |
The screws match nicely |
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Screwed Awakening
The screws that came with the switchplate are not going to
match the copper, so dab a little copper-coloured nail polish
on the screw heads, or coat them with clear nail polish and
dip them in copper powder, available in small vials at art
supply stores. Use an awl or a nail to punch two screw holes
through the copper switchplate cover and you're on your way.
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Double switch plate cover with blue-green patina |
Copper switchplate cover with leaves and green patina over brown
base |
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| Remember that people with clammy fingers will paw the light
switch hundreds of times a year, so if you don't want the pedestrian
brown hue which results from human grime interacting with copper,
I recommend coating your final patina with shellac, urethane
or beeswax polish. |
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Place the scrap wood about half an inch in from the edge |
Lift the copper to start the bend |
Continue bending with your fingers |
Roll out the bend to finish |
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| You can make matching lampshades or candle sconces using sheet
copper. Another way to prevent cuts is to hem the edge by placing
a scrap piece of wood about half an inch in from the edge and
lift the larger side of the copper up to form a right angle.
Use your fingers to finish pressing the fold over flat and then
roll it tight with a rolling pin or pasta roller. |
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Sketch a design on the copper |
Use a variety of tools for different effects |
Working from a model can help |
| Use a variety of tools to punch a pattern into the copper.
It helps to have sketched out a pattern directly on the metal
first. Then use nails, carving knives, kitchen knives or the
corner of an old chisel to make the pattern. Different sizes
of knife blades make different punctures and can be used to
flesh out the design. |
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Make a reflective back and coat it with a clear sealer |
Make tabs on the front piece |
Pass the tabs through the slots in reflector |
Leave enough space between the two sheets for a candle |
Another copper lamp, embossed and cut out with green patina
and shellac as a sealer |
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Stand Up and Be Mounted
To mount your design on a reflective back, cut another piece
of copper about two inches larger on all sides than your design
piece. Hem the edges, polish the surface and coat with water
based urethane or shellac. Cut tabs in your design piece and
matching slots in the reflective backing. Be sure to position
the slots in such a way that when the two pieces fit together
it creates a space between the front and back. Pass the tabs
through the slots and make a double bend in the tabs to hold
the pieces firmly in place. |
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Equal parts pickling vinegar and household ammonia |
Five coats of vinegar first and then one coat of salt water
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Two parts vinegar, one part salt water and one part amonia |
Chemistry Tip
If you'd like to apply a blue-green patina to your switchplates,
brush on a layer of household ammonia, followed right away by
a coat of pickling vinegar. The two chemicals mingle and react
together to oxidize the metal. It works fastest outside in full
sun. Let the solution dry. If the patina still isn't colourful
enough, repeat the process as many times as it takes to get
a great shade of turquoise. If you want a softer green, use
2 parts pickling vinegar, one part salt water and one part ammonia.
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Flame finish |
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The flame of a soldering torch will also provide and interesting
colour on bare copper. To stabilize, use a clear coat of shellac,
water based urethane or wax.
You'll enjoy working with copper just as much as the first
humans did. If it helps, wear a loincloth and practice poor
dental hygiene, just to experience the rich reality of The
Copper Age.
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Artisans'
work featured on this episode:
(click pics for Artist info and larger
images)
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