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Materials:
- Four wheels with internal bearings
- Axles: Two 3' steel rods that fit the wheels
- Eight bushings with setscrews to fit the steel rod
- Axles: Two six foot 2"x 4" boards
- Pivot: One 1/2" x 3" bolt with locking nut and two
washers
- Steering: One 3" square Lazy Susan
- Frame: One four foot 2" x 8" board
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Tools
- Metal file
- Allen keys/wrenches
- Circular saw or table saw
- Drill with bits including 1" spade bit
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Steps:
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Wheels come in different sizes
Four Wheelin'
Choose wheels for your vehicle. Most hardware stores carry
lawnmower replacement wheels, and Lee
Valley carries heavy duty wagon wheels that work great.
(You can carry half a ton on four of those babies.) Remember
that wheels with a diameter of 6" or more will travel
over uneven ground or gravel more easily than smaller wheels.
I went with the Formula One look - larger wheels at the back
and smaller ones at the front.
You'll also need to buy some steel rod to fit the interior
dimension of the wheels you've chosen. The rod will remain
stationary, but the wheels will rotate on the rod. To secure
the wheels in place on the rod, use "bushings",
little rings that slide onto the axle on either side of each
wheel, and tighten in place. Sometimes the bushings don't
slide easily onto the rods so you may have to smooth the ends
of the rods with a metal file.
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Note: All these parts can be found in a good hardware
store. You may have to go to a couple of places to make all
the parts work together, but scrounging and improvising are
the two key principles of go-cart building. If you're in a
pickle, describe what you're creating to the clerk and he
or she may be able to suggest something different than what
I used. No hardware clerk can resist the attraction of solving
a go-cart dilemma.
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Cut a one-half by one-half inch channel in the centre of the
2x4 |
It should fit snuggly over the axle |
'Sandwich' the axle with another 2x4 and screw the boards together
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Back Axle
Next, build a wooden casing for the axle so that you can easily
attach it to the chassis later. One of the easiest ways to do
this is to sandwich the axle lengthwise between two 2"
x 4" boards. To make the sandwich work, you have to create
a channel in one of the boards for the axle to nestle in. Make
two parallel saw cuts half an inch deep along the center of
one 2" x 4" board. The channel should be just wide
enough for the steel rod. Then chisel out the material between
the two sawcuts. When you're done, the axle should fit snuggly
in the channel with enough room at each end to allow the wheels
to spin freely.
Cut a matching length of 2" x 4" and clamp it on
top of the board that is holding the axle. Pre-drill and then
drive at least four 3" screws to lock the boards together.
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Drill a one inch diameter hole half an inch deep followed by
a half inch hole through the board |
The bolt head should fit below the surface of the 2x4 |
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Front Axle
You build the front axle in the same sandwich configuration,
except there's an extra step, because the front axel has to
accommodate the steering mechanism.
So repeat the same steps as you did for the back axle, cutting
two matching pieces of 2" x 4" and chiseling out
a groove in one board.
The front axle has to pivot, so you need to be able to insert
a big honkin' bolt through the center point. But bolts have
big heads, so you have to allow for this. With this in mind,
drill a 1" wide hole half an inch deep in the centre
of the plain 2"x4" (the one without the channel).
Next, finish drilling the rest of the way through the board
using a 1/2" drill bit. Insert a ½" x 3"
bolt. It should slip easily but not sloppily through the hole
and the head should sit in the 1" diameter recess so
that the bolt head is flush with the level of the wood. Don't
fasten the bolt yet!
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Drill a half inch hole in the chassis |
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Connecting the Axles
Center the 3" square Lazy Susan hardware at the end of
your 2" x 8" board and make a mark in the centre
hole. On that mark, drill a half-inch wide hole through the
board.
Okay, the next section won't make any sense until you're
doing it, so be forewarned.
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The 'lazy susan' hardware is centred on the bolt and attached
with screws |
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| Assemble the steering mechanism by first attaching the Lazy
Susan hardware between the 2" x 8" board and the 2"
x 4" axle. You'll have to spin the 2" x 4" in
order to get to the screw holes. Pass the ½" x 3"
bolt up through the 2" x 4" axle and then through
the 2" x 8" frame. Put a washer and nut over the bolt
and snug it down but don't over-tighten. (A nut with a nylon
gasket inside will hold the nut in place and won't vibrate loose.) |
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The front axle is bolted to the chassis |
Attach the rear axle unit to the chassis with screws |
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| Attach the front wheels and axle by setting the axle in the
channel in the 2"x4" and clamping it to the one with
the bolt through it. Then use 3" screws to sandwich the
two 2" x 4" boards together. Attach the rear axel
to the 2"x8" using 3" screws. |
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Attach a support piece to the chassis leaving enough room to
steer easily |
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| Attach a 3' piece of 2"x4" under the 2"x8"
chassis about 8" back from the front axel. Test for the
appropriate location by turning the front axel to see where
it will intersect the new 2"x4". The radius shouldn't
be so great that the wheels bind by turning too far but it isn't
good to limit the turning radius too much either. Once you've
found the right spot, use some 3" screws to attach it to
the chassis. |
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Install a floor and side supports |
Install the side pieces |
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Next, cut and attach two 2"x4"s, one on each side
of the chassis, to the back axel and to the cross piece just
behind the front axel. They will be at the same level as the
chassis forming the floor of the wagon.
Cut and attach four 2"x4"s, one for each corner,
using 3" screws. The 2"x4" should be about
12" to 16" long depending on the material used to
make the sides of the wagon. I've used some slats from a recycled
forklift skid which are made of oak and are about 1/2"
x 4". It helps to lay it out flat to see just how the
side will look and then add enough length on the 2"x4"s
to allow for screws into the frame, usually another 3"
depending on your stock.
Attach the slats to the sides forming the box for the wagon.
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Rope steering mechanism |
Completed wagon |
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| Drill holes in the front axel to allow for a steering/pulling
rope at the front. Reflectors are also a good idea for the back
and have fun. |
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Artisans'
work featured on this episode:
(click pics for Artist info and larger
images)
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